Taking Photos in the Snow and Cold

When you gear up for a winter photo expedition, short or long, the first thing to consider is you. If you’re cold, cold, cold, you won’t be able to focus on the process of capturing a good photo. So dress warmly, and take more clothes than you think you’ll need. Know your vehicle is in good shape, pack enough gear and food that you could survive the night, and bring along your cell phone. Always let someone know where you are.

Winter days are often overcast. Taking a good photo can mean a long wait for the perfect light. Wildlife shots always require an investment of patience. You can’t anticipate what that elk, or wolf, is going to do, when. So you wait, hope, and do what you can to stay warm.

When you have that chance for the shot you want, your equipment needs to be ready to work with you. Have it “tuned up” annually. For analog cameras, have the battery, the shutter, and lenses checked. Be sure your meter is accurate. With digital cameras, bring some extra batteries and be prepared to keep your camera dry.

Professional-grade digital cameras handle inclement weather better than others. If your digital camera doesn’t fit that classification, snow sifting into it can fry the circuitry. To reduce the risk of that damage, seal your camera in a ziplock bag. Whether you are skiing, hiking, or snowshoeing, you can keep batteries warm in your pants pocket. Keep the camera itself in a good-quality external bag to avoid condensation from your body, or an unexpected collision with a tree, from damaging it.

Pack along a tripod and use it to avoid camera movement – this becomes most important if you hope to enlarge any of the pictures you take. Wrap the tripod legs with insulation to keep bare hands from sticking to them. You can buy leg wraps or tape on use pipe insulation from the hardware store.

Sound like a lot of work? The great thing about winter photography is that when you make the effort to be out, you’ll find very few other photographers in your way. You will find glorious expanses of snow unmarked by human activity. And weather creates interesting photo opportunities.

In fact, the snow itself presents interesting opportunities and  challenges. When you really look at snow, you’ll notice its color changes with the light that’s on it. Snow in deep shadows under pine trees is usually blue, at other times of the day, you’ll find snow that’s yellow, pink or red.

When you compose a scene with snow, keep in mind that the eye goes to white or bright areas first. If that’s the foreground of your shot, that’s where a viewer will look. Details will be lost in bright areas, and, a viewer’s eye will be attracted there, possibly missing your intended subject. So be aware of color casts, shadows, and highlights and use them to direct the viewer’s eye to the subject. And if you want to communicate a sense of cold, work with the snow’s blue tones.

Film choices will make working with color simpler so ask questions when you buy your film. For instance, Velvia film gives a warm tone that offsets blues and shadows. If you’re working in digital, exposure latitude is quite limited. (What’s that mean?)

For more on taking photos in the snow, take a look at this book by Livingston’s Tom Murphy, “Silence and Solitude – Yellowstone’s Winter Wilderness.” And don’t forget – if you breathe on your lens and it freezes – it doesn’t matter what kind of effort you put into photo composition, or your gear.

Article by Jenna Caplette, with tips from the staff of F-11 Photo & The Print Refinery™

4 Reasons to Keep Your Memories Local

Peace Of Mind
When it’s sentimental or involves your personal information, (like precious family memories do), you want to talk to a real professional face to face. Keep your memories local to minimize risks associated with using online providers across the country. We can find, fix, and finish any photo from any device right now!
Custom Capabilities
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Quality + Passion
You need someone who really gets it. Local businesses are full of dedicated team members who care about your experience. Our team is made up of passionate photographers and design pros who use extreme care with every project. We’ll stake our reputation on it!
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We’re here for you today and after your purchase or project is complete. The next time you have a photo emergency or special project to complete quickly – we’re here to help!
As your local photo professional, we encounter these needs every day and we’re proud to offer our expertise, care and unmatched value in everything we do.

The Best iPhone Camera Tricks You’re Not Using

The Best iPhone Camera Tricks You’re Not Using

Did you know there are hidden controls in your iPhone camera app? You’ve probably seen the flash and HDR controls and you know that swiping left or right changes the aspect ratio and photo to video mode. Those are labeled on the screen so they’re hard to miss. But what about features that aren’t labeled?

Here are the four best, most overlooked iPhone camera tricks.

The Best iphone camera tricks you're not using

1. Swipe left from the lock screen to open camera.

If you’re thinking, “That’s not revolutionary,” then you’re not paying close enough attention. From the LOCK screen. Which means you can raise your phone and be ready to shoot in one swipe. That’s the difference between getting or missing the shot compared to swiping up from the home screen, which requires you to first authenticate with a passcode, Touch ID or Face ID. This also answers that nagging question you’ve had about those three tiny dots at the very bottom of your lock screen and why the one on the right looks like a camera.

2. Selective AF/AE

Selectawha? Touch anywhere on the screen to autofocus (AF) on and auto-expose (AE), for the lighting in that particular part of the frame. Like when your subject faces are too dark because the background is bright. Or when you want to focus on the stage far away, rather than the person’s head directly in front of you. With a single tap, you now
have complete control over your composition.

3. Exposure Compensation

What if the area on which you want to focus on isn’t the area that you want to expose for? It’s too dark or bright. The answer lies in the small yellow sun icon on either side of the AF/AE box. Slide it up or down to compensate for over or underexposure. Only once the power of this tool sinks in can you fully appreciate the gesture of moving the sun with
your finger.

4. AF/AE Lock

You are now a master. Selecting your focus point, adjusting exposure, and then… You recompose and the frame resets. What? Is all this newfound power really so fleeting? Of course not. Enter AF/AE Lock. The term borrowed from pro dSLRs is just as impressive as it sounds but as simple as you’d expect on your iPhone. Instead of tapping the screen
to select your AF/AE point, touch and hold for two seconds. The selection frame pulsates to confirm and the phrase AF/AE Lock appears on screen. Move your frame anywhere you’d like and your settings remain. Now, you’re a master.

Well, what are you waiting for? Go put your new brilliance to work!

Finally! iOS 12 Lets You Use Google Maps or Waze in CarPlay

Before iOS 12, Apple Maps was the only mapping app you could run on the dashboard in a CarPlay-equipped automobile. But Maps doesn’t always work well, and some people prefer directions from Google Maps or the Google-owned Waze. Once you upgrade your iPhone to iOS 12 and update to the latest version of Google Maps or Waze for iOS, you’ll be able to use those apps on your CarPlay screen. Happy navigating!

Make Safari Tabs Easier to Identify by Adding Icons

Do you end up with so many tabs in Safari that it becomes impossible to read the truncated tab titles? There’s no shame in that, and Safari 12—which comes with macOS 10.14 Mojave and is a free update for 10.12 Sierra and 10.13 High Sierra—now offers an option to add an icon representing the Web site to each open tab. Called a favicon, this tiny image is usually carefully designed to identify its site and makes it easier to pick out the tab. To enable the feature, open Safari > Preferences > Tabs and select “Show website icons in tabs.” Unlike other Web browsers, Safari never shrinks a regular tab to just the icon, so you’ll always see the icon and some text.

Apple Moved Control Center in iOS 12 on the iPad—Here’s Where to Find It

Although most of what’s new in iOS 12 are new features, one change for change’s sake may throw you. In iOS 11 on an iPad, you would bring up Control Center by swiping up from the bottom of the screen, just like on all iPhones other than the iPhone X. With iOS 12, however, Apple brought the iPad in line with the iPhone X and the recently released iPhone XR, XS, and XS Max. Swiping up from the bottom of the screen on the iPad now reveals the Dock, and if you continue swiping, the App Switcher. But no Control Center! To bring up Control Center, swipe down from the upper-right corner of the screen—use the Wi-Fi and battery icons as a reminder.

Have You Noticed That Mojave’s Dock Shows Recent Applications?

The Mac’s Dock gives you quick access to frequently used apps, documents, and folders, and makes it easy to switch to a running app. In macOS 10.14 Mojave, the Dock has another feature: a list of apps you’ve used recently that aren’t on your default Dock. Icons for these apps appear between your Dock’s default apps and any documents or folders that you’ve added—look closely and you’ll notice subtle lines in the Dock that delineate this area. It always holds at least three apps, but expands to hold as many launched apps (note the subtle dot under the icon) as necessary; as you quit apps, their icons disappear until you’re back down to three. If you don’t like this change, turn off “Show recent applications in Dock” in System Preferences > Dock.

Understanding Dark Mode in macOS 10.14 Mojave

The feature Apple is promoting most heavily with macOS 10.14 Mojave is Dark mode, which the company advertises as “a dramatic new look that helps you focus on your work… as toolbars and menus recede into the background.” Let’s look at what Apple has done with Dark mode, after which you’ll have a better idea of what to think about while trying it.

Enable Dark Mode

First, to turn Dark mode on, go to System Preferences > General and click the Dark thumbnail to the right of Appearance. Mojave immediately switches to Dark mode, turning light backgrounds dark and swapping the text color from dark to light.

While you’re in System Preferences, click over to the Desktop & Screen Saver preference pane. If you scroll down in the Desktop Pictures list, you’ll discover a bunch of new wallpapers that blend well with Dark mode.

Dark Mode Support and Controls

You’ll notice that the color change takes place instantly not just in the Finder, but also in any apps that support Dark mode. Most of Apple’s apps support Dark mode and third-party developers are rapidly adding support to their apps as well. However, Dark mode requires explicit support from apps, so older apps that aren’t being updated will maintain their standard dark-on-light color schemes.

Some apps, such as Maps and Mail, give you additional options that change just how dark they get. In Maps, choose View > Use Dark Map to toggle between a dark map style and the familiar map style that mimics a paper map. Similarly, in Mail, go to Mail > Preferences > Viewing and deselect “Use dark backgrounds for messages” to return to a white background.

If you generally like Dark mode but have trouble reading light text on a dark background due to the reduced contrast, you may be able to choose a different font or style in the app’s preferences that makes the text more readable. Apps like Mail give you a fair amount of that sort of control.

For even more control over contrast, open System Preferences > Accessibility > Display. There you’ll find a Display Contrast slider that lets you make text lighter and backgrounds darker. You can also select Reduce Transparency to make it so items like the Dock and menu bar are solid colors, rather than allowing the background to bleed through. To separate dark and light further, select Increase Contrast, which increases the brightness of divider lines as well.

The Dark Side of Dark Mode

Contrast is necessary for pulling out fine details, but too much contrast can be uncomfortable or even painful—think about how you feel when someone turns on a bright light in a previously dark room. For visual comfort, it’s usually best to match your screen with the lighting of your surroundings. That’s why people who often work at night or with the window blinds down like dark modes—a bright screen seems brighter in a dimly lit room. That’s the theory behind the traditional dark text on a light background too, since the room will be quite light during the day.

So Dark mode can run into two problems. First is that using it during the day or in a brightly lit room may create an uncomfortable contrast between the screen and its surroundings. Controlling your room lighting can eliminate this as an issue. Second and more troubling, even apps that support Dark mode may have large content areas that are bright white, creating a strong contrast between the content area and the rest of the app. Many Web sites in Safari have this effect, as do documents in apps like Pages and Numbers. There’s no way around this scenario.

Even if Dark mode isn’t perfect, it’s worth a try if you have trouble looking at bright screens. Regardless, if it goes too far for you, one of the new dark wallpapers may be easier on your eyes. While most people aren’t overly light sensitive, a non-trivial percentage of the population is, particularly those who suffer from migraines or who have endured concussions, and those with a variety of ocular conditions. And if you’re on the other end of the spectrum—if Dark mode looks dirty and is hard to read—just stick with the traditional Light mode.


Social Media: Apple is promoting macOS 10.14 Mojave’s new Dark mode heavily. Read on to learn if it might be for you, how you can tweak its contrast settings, and what problems you might encounter.

Developing Negatives In The Modern Age

Developing Negatives In The Modern Age

A recent BBC article highlighted the mystique of old photographic negatives. When a few century-old glass negatives were purchased at a flea market, scanned and posted on twitter they were shared by over 20M people within two days. Kind of makes you curious to find out what might be in your old family collections doesn’t it?

If this seems like something suited only to a photo geek with high-end scanners and photoshop wizardry, think again. Sure, the person in the story fits that description and admits that he first tried scanning them and inverting in Photoshop. But he couldn’t use them. The files were too big and since the original negatives were made of glass, he encountered other problems when trying to place them on a glass scanner. So he turned to the same tool you would. His iPhone.

He taped them to a window and snapped a photo. After a quick search for an app to invert the negative image to positive, he was posting them on Twitter. Now that’s wizardry.

The moral of the story? Old negatives are big. Some as big as 4×5 or even 8×10 inches. Even not-so-old negatives from the 40’s and 50’s are commonly three to four inches across. That’ big enough to capture without special scanning equipment. So if you’re lucky enough to have that kind of heritage in your possession, and you also happen to own a futuristic pocket-sized image inversion tool that may or may not also make phone calls, you are a very powerful wizard.

Metal Has Made It

Metal Has Made It

Aluminum ain’t just for Apple anymore. Here’s why metal prints have caught on as the new
medium of choice for paper warry photo printers.

Metal has made it.

1. Bonded to be bold.

The dye sublimation process fuses pigment directly into the surface of coated metal, creating
depth and intense color saturation. Archival inks heated to over 400 degrees are chemically
bonded to the surface so there is no adhesive or ink overlay to separate over time. Metal prints
are as archival as the finest silver- and ink-based photographs.

2. Aluminum is easy.

Because they’re aluminum, they’re only 1mm thick, yet very rigid. That makes small prints great
for any shelf or desktop display where they can be leaned or set in a slatted base.
Medium sizes like 12×12 and 20×20 look right at home as-is, on a mantle or shelf without any
additional finishing. And larger prints can be floated off the wall, mounted to other substrates, or
framed for stunning glass-less presentations that weight barely more than a mounted paper
photograph would.

Metal has made it.

3. Variety = versatility.

Metal prints fit every environment. The large and custom size options are well suited for
commercial applications like offices and corporate boardrooms. They’re the first choice for
medical or industrial environments that require sterility or infallibility in cold, hot, or humid
environments. And the tough, durable properties of aluminum make them particularly applicable
to tamper-proof and touch-friendly installations like museums and municipalities.

All this in a print with fine-art quality and long life. What will you make with metal?